International Best-Dressed List keeper Amy Fine Collins, film director Janicza Bravo, and model Ella Emhoff, who were all in attendance on Friday, all look great in his clothes.
To be sure, Browne has his womenswear devotees. I’ve wondered lately whether Browne could do the same for the ladies. Still, his most radical statements happen with his most straightforward clothes-a man in a pleated Thom Browne skirt just sets people off. His menswear often reads as a statement about queerness-a camp knowingness about deviation from norms-and that happened to align with the passion for identity politics that has overtaken celebrity style. In America, the airhead and the sphinx are often one and the same.īut somehow, maybe since he started showing on and off in Paris, in 2017, Browne’s ability to freak has evolved into a movement, or at least something with a bit more urgency. You reveal your inner freak, in other words. You move to New York to find like-minded weirdos and create an edgier, more bizarre version of yourself. It was a portrait of New Yorkers “finding themselves in their toy version.” It is true-and one of the best things about New York, actually-that living in the city is a process of autobiography. Browne put it more pointedly backstage: “New York is the island of misfit toys, and everybody comes here to find themselves or create themselves,” he said. It’s what I love about this country-and one of the only things left to love, at that!Ī voiceover explained the two parts-25 straight preppy looks, and 25 crazy playful conceptual preppy looks-as New Yorkers meeting their true selves. It’s Warhol, it’s the bimbo, it’s hot dogs and milkshakes and hot fudge sundaes as cuisine. Why? Because why not! You know, in America, the airhead and the sphinx are often one and the same.
Slinkies! Tubes! A jacket dressed as a jacket! Big sloppy cableknits and crazy jumbo quilted coats! There was a tennis sweater that was a tennis ball. ( Let’s hear it for the tooooys!!!) Enormous concoctions of gray flannel and plaid and stripes, wobbling on platform shoes made of stacks of classic alphabet blocks. As he said backstage, it looks expensive because it is! Come to think of it, a lot of designers can’t really say that right now. It’s amazing what you can do with just that palette of fabrics–the clothes never looked redundant–and I thought it was one of the most assured and elegant statements I’ve ever seen from Browne, loaded with skill, perfectly made. The silhouette was almost unchanged-little jackets underneath a longer leaner jacket with bracelet-length sleeves, knife-pleat and A-line skirts over trousers, big platform shoes. Models with two- and three-model-long bags sauntered out, and a model in big furry platform boots and paws and a stovepipe hat with little bear ears lumbered in as a voiceover announced, “Welcome to my Teddy Talk!” (This was technically Thom Browne’s Fall 2022 show, happening all these months after New York Fashion Week presumably to scoop up some of the celebrities in town for Monday’s gala.)Īnd then 25 killer preppy looks streamed by-great herringbone and houndstooth and pinstripe and windowpane fabrics edged with rep tie stripes and white and gray piping. (You could say the same about seeing groups of people in Browne’s clothes.) Teddy bears can’t move, so I guess I shouldn’t have been alarmed-but en masse, the stillness of these playful little prepsters had an almost hysterical, horror film effect. Not only that, but eyebrows were raised all over America as young women began to embrace trousers and loose shirts.Friday night at the Javits Center, countless demi-celebrities in Thom Browne confections clutched small teddy bears in their arms and gazed across a field of five hundred more teddy bears seated with alarming uniformity. The 1930s also saw the introduction of denim into the wardrobes of young college women. This was the era of oxford shirts, cable knit sweaters and loafers. Of course during these decades, the word ‘preppy’ came from the preparatory schools that wealthy kids would attend before college. Plus, see our gallery of the new SS17 collection below!
To celebrate the SS17 Polo Ralph Lauren women’s collection, which has made a brilliant return to the preppy style the iconic brand is known for, we at Grazia have taken a look back at the origins of prep, all the way from the turn of the 20th century to the present day. In modern day terms? That translates to classic style and dazzling success. In essence, it originated from tradition and social achievement. The style emerged from a long history of Americana fashion, but it means so much more than what you put on your back. Being preppy isn’t just about secret societies and tweed blazers.
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